The 2009 PASSA red is an equal blend of Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz, with 10% Touriga Nacional, aged 70% in tank, with the rest in old oak for 18 months. This entry level normally shows friendly and fruity, loaded with charm. This year it seems to have a bit more than that, perhaps another of those lower level beneficiaries of the ’09 vintage power. Nicely constructed, it has moderate tannins and more depth than normal. With air, it does begin to seem more like Passa, with that sweet, easygoing fruitiness, but it has, for its status, impressive concentration and structure this year. Drink now-2017. Importer: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620

The 2008 PASSA is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz. Feeling fairly full in the mouth, it is also bright and lively, with clean flavors and a nice finish. Its mid-palate concentration is modest. While meant to be approachable early, it has some structure and seems to show a lot more persistence than many wines in this niche tend to do. Very sunny and fresh, it may hold better than usual this year. Drink now-2015. Importer: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620

In an intriguingly old-fashioned style, all hard tannins and brooding power, this wine also impresses with its stern demeanor. How it will develop is hard to tell at this stage. To judge by the simpler quinta wine (see September 2008 Buying Guide), the fruits will come through, but this Reserva certainly demands a long wait. ——R.V.(11/1/2008)—— 92

The 2007 PASSA is charming and bright, fruity and easy, a very nice rendition of an entry level wine. With modest oak treatment, its fruit is pure and clean. If, like most such wines, it has modest structure and depth, it is nonetheless a pleasure to drink. If encountered young, it will win many fans, but it needs to be encountered young as it is the type of wine that may decline fairly rapidly from its peak. I particularly liked its sunny demeanor, which gave it a certain liveliness to add to its fruit forward character, thus making it just a little more than a flabby, easy drinker. Drink now-2011. Prices continue to see-saw here and at other wineries as importers and producers try to account for the economy and exchange rates, as well as more ordinary market concerns. The Reserva is UP, the Passa and Tinto are DOWN, at least according to estimated list prices, which are admittedly sometimes pure fiction (usually on the high side) compared to what happens in the actual marketplace. That said, the Tinto should be a nice value in 2007.Importer: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620