The 2008 PASSA is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz. Feeling fairly full in the mouth, it is also bright and lively, with clean flavors and a nice finish. Its mid-palate concentration is modest. While meant to be approachable early, it has some structure and seems to show a lot more persistence than many wines in this niche tend to do. Very sunny and fresh, it may hold better than usual this year. Drink now-2015. Importer: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620

In an intriguingly old-fashioned style, all hard tannins and brooding power, this wine also impresses with its stern demeanor. How it will develop is hard to tell at this stage. To judge by the simpler quinta wine (see September 2008 Buying Guide), the fruits will come through, but this Reserva certainly demands a long wait. ——R.V.(11/1/2008)—— 92