The 2009 BRANCO (CAPOEIRA), 90% Fernao Pires, with 10% Sauvignon Blanc, is laced with lemons, giving it a bracing opening and quite a gripping finish. This doesn’t have a lot of depth, but it does have a lot of intensity and enough fruit to coat the palate. It looks promising in its youth. Despite the initial intensity seen on release, I’d still want to drink this young for best results until it proves otherwise. It’s a fine value white from a winery that usually delivers in that category. Drink now-2012. Casal Branco has a lot of brands, which are often bewildering. Some seem largely importer-driven, with Vino Cava’s imports of Capoeira and Quartilho, in particular. If you are comparing, the Capoeira white is 90% Fernao Pires, with 10% Sauvignon Blanc, a blend for the importer (similar, however, to Casal Branco’s Terra de Lobos branco) , while the ’09 “normal” Branco just carrying the Casal Branco label with no other branding, also reviewed this issue, is 100% Fernao Pires. That normal Casal Branco white, however, to continue the confusion, is similar to the Quartilho white (with the big “Q” on the label), close enough to be called the same by one of the importers, also 100% Fernao Pires and unoaked. On the other hand, the Quartilho red, reviewed in the past, is different than the normal Casal Branco red, as the Quartilho does not contain any international grapes. If it is hard to keep up with the branding, one bottom line is that Casal Branco’s wines are usually very fine values.Importer: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel: (610) 688-8415; for the Falcoaria and Casal Branco labels only: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155;

The 2007 BRANCO CAPOEIRA is a blend of Fernao Pires from 25 year old vines (70%) and Sauvignon Blanc. It is unoaked. It is dominated by the Sauvignon Blanc in flavor, although not particularly herbaceous. Light and fresh, with a modest finish, it is perky and a decent deal for a Summer-type white given its low price point. Drink it young and fresh. Drink now-2010. The wines at this estate fall largely into the value category. The whites, in particular, can be good deals that outperform their modest price class.Importer: For all wines except Quartilho and Capoeira brands: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155; for Quartilho and Capoeira wines only: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel: (610) 688-8415