The 2007 FERNAO PIRES (FALCOARIA) is barrel fermented. Oak is always a philosophical question for some, but ignoring philosophy, tasting purer versions of this grape from Casal Branco, a winery that makes very fine and very affordable wines from this grape, is an interesting contrast. This is a reasonably nice performance handling the wood, with grip on the finish, perhaps a touch of tannin, and an effort to be flavor-neutral in terms of wood. The acidity shines through. This certainly has many merits, philosophical objections aside. Drink now-2011. There were 12,000 cases produced. Importer: For all wines except Quartilho and Capoeira brands: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155; for Quartilho and Capoeira wines only: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel: (610) 688-8415

The 2006 FERNAO PIRES FALCOARIA is a cut above the Terra de Lobos Branco reviewed here, showing more persistence on the finish and a crisper, more succulent demeanor, tinged with vanilla. It is light and a bit straightforward, but well priced. The vanilla nuances are a bit off-putting. Drink now-2009. The wines at this estate fall largely into the value category. The whites, in particular, can sometimes be good deals and outperform their price classification.Importer: For all wines except Quartilho and Capoeira brands: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155; for Quartilho and Capoeira wines only: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel: (610) 688-8415

The 2004 Branco Ribatejo (Falcoaria) is a fine deal. I wonder how many people drinking this blind would think it was the equivalent of a $25 California Chardonnay, or even a modest white Burg. It is, however, made from Fernao Pires, also known as Maria Gomes in other regions. Bright and oaky, laced with vanilla overtones, this has an extremely respectable and lingering finish for the price range, decent mid-palate weight and some liveliness. Oak-a-phobes will not be as pleased, as there is a considerable up front hit, but there is more to this wine than that, and with air the oak integrates fairly well. It is not overbearing. It shows little bits of spice, nice aromatics, and balance, too. This was sourced from 25-year-old vines, and aged in French oak only. The longer I had this open, the more I liked it. Drink this on the young side, although it may hold longer. Drink now-2010. This family-owned estate has been in the same hands for some two centuries. It seems very modern, though, as witnessed by its new “Cork Grove” line, which will remind people very much of New World wine.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155