The 2008 Palafreno (Merlot) is another delicate red. It is an attractive, mid-weight wine layered with sweet dark cherries, flowers, mint and minerals. There is plenty of freshness in the glass, but not quite the richness of the finest years. The French oak needs time to integrate, but may never fully disappear given the wine’s modest depth. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. It’s not exactly as though Querciabella needed to re-invent itself, the wines had been outstanding for years, but that is exactly what is happening at this historic estate in Greve. Full credit must go to proprietor Sebastiano Castiglioni for his vision, unwavering commitment to quality and hiring of Luca Currado of Vietti to oversee the project. Querciabella recently completed the acquisition of additional vineyards in Castellina, which now gives the estate land in three different villages within Chianti Classico. The new vines are part of a project underway to make a series of single-vineyard Sangioveses from the estate’s top vineyards. Within Querciabella itself, the flagship Camartina is increasingly a vehicle for Sangiovese, which frees up the Merlot for the Palafreno. It is truly impressive to see what Castiglione and Currado have managed to achieve in just a few years, especially considering the last two vintages have not been among the most favorable. Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

The estate’s 2007 Palafreno offers layers of rich, dark fruit in a dramatic, opulent voice of Merlot from these pristine hillside vineyards in Greve. Stuningly pure, the 2007 Palafreno reveals quite a bit more depth and richness than the Camartina in this vintage. The finish is long, polished and beyond impeccable, with lingering notes of graphite, crushed rocks and all things mineral that invite a second taste. The hardest decision readers will face is when to drink the Palafreno, as it is insanely beautiful now, but also promises to improve in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2027. Querciabella has been on a roll over the last few years. I can’t say enough good things about these wines, all of which merit your serious consideration. Querciabella doesn’t make a big deal about the fact that their vineyards are now biodynamically farmed, but then again they don’t have to?the wines speak for themselves. Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Querciabella’s 2004 Palafreno (Merlot) is a surprisingly rustic wine for an estate whose house style tends towards polished, elegant wines. Made in a powerful, full-bodied style, it shows notes of earthiness, leather, game and dark cherries. There is plenty of fruit here, but the tannins are coarse and rough around the edges, something that is very uncharacteristic of this great Tuscan vintage. Ultimately the wine’s balance is not convincing and bottle age is unlikely to help to any significant degree. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. Querciabella occupies a stupendous position in the hills of Greve. With one notable exception, this is another set of strong releases from an estate that in recent years has made some of the most beautiful wines in its history.Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000