The 2008 Palafreno (Merlot) is another delicate red. It is an attractive, mid-weight wine layered with sweet dark cherries, flowers, mint and minerals. There is plenty of freshness in the glass, but not quite the richness of the finest years. The French oak needs time to integrate, but may never fully disappear given the wine’s modest depth. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. It’s not exactly as though Querciabella needed to re-invent itself, the wines had been outstanding for years, but that is exactly what is happening at this historic estate in Greve. Full credit must go to proprietor Sebastiano Castiglioni for his vision, unwavering commitment to quality and hiring of Luca Currado of Vietti to oversee the project. Querciabella recently completed the acquisition of additional vineyards in Castellina, which now gives the estate land in three different villages within Chianti Classico. The new vines are part of a project underway to make a series of single-vineyard Sangioveses from the estate’s top vineyards. Within Querciabella itself, the flagship Camartina is increasingly a vehicle for Sangiovese, which frees up the Merlot for the Palafreno. It is truly impressive to see what Castiglione and Currado have managed to achieve in just a few years, especially considering the last two vintages have not been among the most favorable. Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000