The 2007 AGIORGITIKO is unoaked and light, showing good purity of fruit with a hint of earthiness. It has modest mid-palate concentration, structure and finish. It is, of course, also modestly priced, and in its price range it provides some easy drinking pleasure for the money. It has some charm, some brightness and there is just enough tannin underneath to give it a little intensity. This grew on me as it aired out (15-20 minutes) and woke up, although it is likely to shed fruit fairly rapidly over its useful lifespan. Drink now-2012. Importer: Stellar Importing Co., Whitestone, N.Y.; tel: (718) 352-1180

A floral character adds interesting dimension to the red berry and pepper aromas, and on the palate, it shows a zip and spice that mingles well with the earthier aspects of the grape. There’s still a touch of that indigenous rusticity but the floral and minerally elements, added to the spice, are fun and exotic.——S.K.(11/15/2007)—— 84