The 2010 Verdejo Vendimia Seleccionada is pushing the bottle aging of Verdejo to the limit. It’s a barrel-fermented pure Verdejo that aged in the barrique for six months and is a well-oaked white, with a golden color and a nose of camphor, diesel, spices and yellow fruit plus hints of smoke and quince. The palate reveals a succulent wine, still influenced by the oak-aging, with flavors of toffee and cafe au lait, very good acidity and balance. I remember the 1997 version of this wine surprising many people in a blind tasting at age ten. It’s an oaky white, perhaps not for all palates. Drink now-2018. Importer: Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228, www.kysela.com

An ambitiously-styled dry white wine, this 1998, produced from 50-year old Verdejo vines, comes as close as Verdejo can to a seriously-structured, textured, impeccably well-made white Burgundy. It reveals notes of vanilla, white corn, and peaches presented in an elegant, medium-bodied, nicely-textured style. Drink it over the next 12-16 months. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565