Ogier's 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes Blanc delivers bright, crunchy notes of green apple and lime zest. Medium-bodied, crisp, chalky and clean, it's not what I'm looking for in a white Chateauneuf, but is an attractive, refreshing white to drink young. Equal parts Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, with one-fourth made and aged in wood.

The 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes Blanc delivers clear, pristine notes of tangerine and lime on the nose. Medium to full-bodied, it's round and silky in texture, with a vibrant, refreshing finish. Drink it on the young side.

A near carbon copy of the excellent 2016 version, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes is an equal-parts blend of Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. One-fourth was barrel fermented—just enough to provide a sense of richness to the stone fruit and tangerine flavors, while finishing crisp, briny and fresh.