Somewhere between an Amarone and a partially dried Primitivo, the 2010 Kurni follows in a spectacular tradition of winemaking with air-dried grapes that spans from north to south on the Adriatic side of the Italian peninsula. This is an extreme wine that will appeal to those who seek this overblown and over-the-top style. The Montepulciano grape has been pushed beyond it's already super dark and inky, rich threshold. Kurni offers an impressive bouquet with blackberry preserves, dried plums and generous layers of exotic spice. The tannins are richly plump and sensually smooth.

The flagship 2009 Marche Rosso Kurni is another in a series of wines that pushes the boundaries of what is possible with Montepulciano. Plums, black cherries, mocha, espresso, blackberry jam and menthol are woven together in a seamless fabric that covers every inch of the palate. A cross between Montepulciano and Amarone, the Kurni impresses for its voluptuous, silky personality that is the result of low yields and an approach that calls for partially drying the fruit. With time in the glass, the new French oak becomes increasingly apparent. Today, the 2009 is a bit bombastic. It will be interesting to see if it settles down over time. Kurni remains one of the most interesting and distinctive wines in Italy, although I have to be honest, the last two vintages have been less exciting than some of the great wines of the past. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Oasi degli Angeli is one of the cutting-edge wineries in the Marche. Importer: Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010

The 2008 Marche Rosso Kurni is quite unusual in this vintage. The wine comes across as rather compact in its fruit, which accentuates the sweetness of the fruit and the French oak. In a blind tasting the 2008 could easily be mistaken for a sweet red dessert wine. Let's hope 2008 turns out be an anomaly for one of the Marche's most famous reds. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Oasi degli Angeli is one of Italy's most ambitious wineries. Over the years proprietors Eleonora Rossi and Marco Casolanetti have fashioned some of the country's most fascinating reds. Prices have climbed along the way, culminating with the release of a new wine, Kupra, last year at an eye-popping $350 a bottle. Understandably, no one wants to be underpaid for the results of their hard work, but such a pricing strategy creates a very high bar with no safety net. When a difficult vintage like 2008 comes along, well, the results can be devastating. I sincerely hope these new releases from Oasi degli Angeli represent a temporary setback, and that the winery will be able to return to their customary high level of quality in the very near future.Importer: Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010

The 2007 Kurni is simply fabulous. This rich, deeply-textured wine bursts onto the palate with masses of chocolate, mocha, blueberry and blackberry jam, spices, licorice and French oak. Totally seamless and opulent, the Kurni dazzles for its exceptional balance and phenomenal length. In 2007 the tannins are particularly ripe, elegant and finessed. In fact, this is one of the finest vintages of Kurni I have tasted. It is a must-have bottle for readers who seek the finest artisan wines of Italy. Today the French oak is rather prominent, but another few years in bottle should help the wine come together nicely. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. These are two exceptional wines from proprietors Marco Casolanetti and Elenora Rossi. Oasi degli Angeli has long set a benchmark for Montepulciano with Kurni, an intense, full-throttle red produced from partially dried grapes. This year the estate has a new wine, Kupra, a Grenache made from a densely-planted vineyard that pushes the boundaries of what can be done with viticulture. Importer: Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010

Proprietors Marco Casolanetti and Eleonora Rossi continue to fashion one of the most distinctive wines being made in Italy today. Kurni is 100% Montepulciano made from partially dried grapes and aged in new French oak. Stylistically, Kurni is Marche’s answer to top-flight Amarone. The 2006 is an exceptionally opulent, seamless wine loaded with jammy dark fruit, sweet French oak, new leather and cassis. The Montepulciano tannins lurk in the background and also serve to give the wine a sense of balance that might otherwise be missing. The 2006 is another in a long series of successful vintages from the Marche’s most ambitious estate. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2021. Importer: Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010