The flagship 2009 Marche Rosso Kurni is another in a series of wines that pushes the boundaries of what is possible with Montepulciano. Plums, black cherries, mocha, espresso, blackberry jam and menthol are woven together in a seamless fabric that covers every inch of the palate. A cross between Montepulciano and Amarone, the Kurni impresses for its voluptuous, silky personality that is the result of low yields and an approach that calls for partially drying the fruit. With time in the glass, the new French oak becomes increasingly apparent. Today, the 2009 is a bit bombastic. It will be interesting to see if it settles down over time. Kurni remains one of the most interesting and distinctive wines in Italy, although I have to be honest, the last two vintages have been less exciting than some of the great wines of the past. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Oasi degli Angeli is one of the cutting-edge wineries in the Marche. Importer: Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010