The silly and pointless appellation rules which require a percentage of Sangiovese in appellation wines prevent Marco Casolanetti from labeling his wine as a Rosso Piceno, even though it is surely one of the two or three finest of the zone. Montepulciano is what works best in his vineyards and pure, rich Montepulciano is what consumers will get in the 2002 Kurni, astonishingly good for the vintage in the ripeness of its plum fruit, the warmth and spiciness of its aromas, and the fullness and roundness of its texture. With just a tiny bit more structure and length, the wine would be fully the equal of the great 2001 Kurni. Drink: 2006-2016. Importer: Vinity Wine Co., Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010