Marked by a lean minerality, this Chablis-style wine is not one of those fat, opulent Chards that dazzles with sheer richness. It’s more subtle than that, and more acidic. Structure, in fact, is the name of the game here, with its lemon and lime flavors that barely break into green apples. Fine now, if not served too cold, and for the next 2–4 years. Beyond that, wines of this kind go quickly downhill. ——S.H.(6/1/2010)—— 92

Hat Trick is the best of the best of Morgan’s estate vineyard, which is in the chilliest northwestern part of the Highlands. Acidity stars, giving the wine a brilliant crispness that’s so clean and fine. Barrel fermented in one-third new French oak, the wine is incredibly rich and leesy. The terroir has coaxed out complex layers of pineapples, Meyer lemons, limes, apricots and very exotic tropical fruits suggesting golden mangoes and papayas. The oak adds even richer layers of creme brulee to this vastly enjoyable wine.——S.H.(7/1/2008)—— 95

The 2004 Chardonnay Hat Trick Double L Vineyard exhibits a light gold color along with a sweet bouquet of buttered pineapple and popcorn, medium body, and copious texture as well as flavor. This elegant yet substantial white should drink well for 2-3 years. Tel. (831) 751-7777