Marked by a lean minerality, this Chablis-style wine is not one of those fat, opulent Chards that dazzles with sheer richness. It’s more subtle than that, and more acidic. Structure, in fact, is the name of the game here, with its lemon and lime flavors that barely break into green apples. Fine now, if not served too cold, and for the next 2–4 years. Beyond that, wines of this kind go quickly downhill. ——S.H.(6/1/2010)—— 92