Acidity and minerals are the hallmarks of this exciting Chardonnay. Of course, you’ll find the ripe tropical fruit and new oak and lees of other Chardonnays, but it’s really that tanginess that attracts. Currently the wine shows primary flavors of mangoes and papayas, but it would not surprise me if it ages well beyond five years. ——S.H.(12/1/2006)—— 95