Leroux's 2018 Volnay Village offers up aromas of cherries, cassis, dark chocolate and grilled squab, followed by a medium to full-bodied, supple and velvety palate with a pretty core of fruit, powdery tannins and succulent underlying acids. It's a blend of Grands Champs, Gigotte and Carelles—fine communal lieux-dits that touch the premiers crus.

The 2016 Volnay Villages is comprised this year of one barrel of village and four barrels of premier cru (namely Mitans and Santenots). It has a pretty bouquet of redcurrant and wild strawberry fruit, a little confit-like in style and nicely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe red berry fruit tinged with marmalade and orange rind, leading to a linear and focused finish. Not bad, but a little conservative for a Volnay.

The 2015 Volnay Villages, whose production has been depleted since 2012, was showing some reduction on the nose as it was due for racking. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe and rounded tannin, nicely judged acidity, hints of dark plum and tea leaves towards the nicely composed finish. This is a satisfying village cru.

The 2009 Volnay is soft, seamless and totally harmonious. It is a prototypical 2009 – perhaps not super-complex but undeniably racy and totally delicious. The Volnay should offer highly rewarding drinking right out of the gate. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Benjamin Leroux is one of Burgundy’s most promising young winemakers. Leroux is best known for the wines he makes at Comte Armand, one of the reference-point properties in the Cote de Beaune. Since 2007 Leroux has made wines under his own label using a micro-negociant model that has become increasingly popular in Burgundy. Leroux sources fruit from some of Burgundy’s top sites and bottles an eye-popping 27 different wines, most in 2-3 barrel lots. I also tasted a number of 2009 whites in addition to these 2009 reds. Readers will find those notes on www.erobertparker.com. The whites are aged in 300-liter barrels. Leroux goes for a tight, mineral-driven style, with no stirring of the lees. Leroux’s passion, ambition and sheer talent have already resulted in a number of stunning, beautiful wines, but my sense is that the best is yet to come. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, imported by Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803, C’Est Vin, District of Columbia; tel. (703) 243-3559, Scott Paul Wines, Oregon; tel. (503) 852-7300, Wines Unlimited, Louisiana; tel. (504) 897-0191