The Le Macchiole 2019 Paleo reveals an extremely precise and etched personality that is perfectly suited to this classic vintage. If you love Cabernet Franc, this is your wine. The bouquet is linear and tight with wet gravel, lead pencil and graphite that make an elegant frame around blackberry and black plum. You taste every last miniature detail in this complex and powerful expression. Fruit comes from a 5.5-hectare plot that rises from 37 to 70 meters above sea level. The soils are a mix of clay, sand, silt, stone and limestone that is characteristic of this stretch of Tuscan coastline. The wine is fermented in cement and aged in barrique for 20 months. On second nose, Paleo begins to offer cardamom pod, exotic spice and fragrant rose water. With 25,400 bottles made, you need to give this glorious wine time to age.

You could argue that this wine changed Italian wine, because it was the first to fully embrace the potential of Cabernet Franc in the bel paese. The Le Macchiole 2018 Paleo has a spicy and tangy personality with dark fruit, bitter chocolate and tarry smoke. Coming back to my open bottle 24 hours later, I got some green olive and rosemary essence. The mouthfeel fleshes out considerably, and there is beautiful structure to hold it firmly together. Other vintners in Bolgheri have told me of their difficulties with Cabernet Franc in the 2018 vintage, which saw rain toward the end of the season. This wine feels magically immune to those issues and probably means that the expert vineyard team harvested at the right moment.

The Three Graces of Le Macchiole are Messorio, Scrio and Paleo (Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc, respectively). Of these three top-tier releases, my favorite is the 2017 Paleo. This is an upright and direct expression of the grape that carefully sheds some dusty or mineral aromas before opening the way for determined black fruit, charred meat, spice and cured tobacco or cigar. There is quite a bit of oak, but it works beautifully against the natural intensity and rich concentration of the hot vintage. More unexpected are those pretty tones of lilac, blue flower and aniseed that add to the detailed rendering and complexity of the bouquet. This wine won my heart.

Here's another pure varietal expression, this time Cabernet Franc, and it is one for the ages. The 2015 edition of the Paleo was hot with nutty notes, whereas the 2016 Paleo is tighter and fresher. There is tension and precision here, rendering beautifully pastoral tones of green olive and herbs. You'll pick up notes of moist earth along with some spice. The freshness is truly epic, with well-integrated tannins. When you hit the licorice tones, you'll finally appreciate the depth and dimension of this wine. This is a true beauty, with enormous depth, concentration and power.