The 2011 La Legua Reserva was produced with Tempranillo grapes grown on chalky soils fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts, and aged in a mixture of French and American oak barrels for 18 months. There is a clear notion of the ripeness of the warm and dry vintage in the black fruit, which shows high ripeness combined with some spices from the oak. In the palate it feels like the oak will soon take over the fruit, which might start drying out soon, so I'd drink this sooner rather than later. Is more time in oak better? 50,000 bottles.

The 2010 Reserva is produced with Tempranillo grapes grown on chalky soils fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and aged in French and American oak barrels for 18 months. It feels like the barrel has the leading role here, with plenty of spicy and smoky notes, but there is a good core of ripe black fruit, ripe but without excess. The nose is agreeable, but the palate feels the abundance of drying, slightly rustic and chunky tannins. It might get polished with more time in the bottle, but it is a bit of a question mark today. 50,000 bottles produced. Drink 2014-2018. I hear about a generational replacement and a change of winemaker at La Legua, one of the classical names in Cigales. Are the winds of change blowing? We’ll see in the following years. No known American importer.

The 2009 La Legua Reserva is seasoned with 4% Cabernet Sauvignon and, like the Crianza, 40% undergoes malolactic fermentation in barrel before spending 20 months in American (40%) and French (60%) oak – new, one- and two-year old. It has a similar aromatic profile to the Crianza, but with a little more intensity and volume: pure, floral dark cherry and violet scents with (again) that marine leitmotif adding another dimension. The palate is very well-balanced, smooth and inviting, but showing more structure than the Crianza on the second half. It remains a feminine Cigales red, perhaps not a long-term wine as it dips towards the finish. Nevertheless, it is certainly well-crafted and represents good value. Drink now-2018. While I am accustomed to music being piped into barrel cellars to “calm” the wines during their maturation, my visit to Bodegas La Legua marked the first occasion where the music was “l(fā)ive.” One hopes that the guitarist, strumming away on his electric guitar on his portable amp, is allowed out for air once in a while. In the 1970s, Bodegas La Legua was the first winery in Cigales to plant red varieties only, and to this day they are one of the few to eschew rose. Proprietor and neurologist Emeterio Fernandez owns 80 hectares of vine around the winery, which is sub-divided into six-hectare parcels. The average age of vine is 35 years, and they produce around 250,000 bottles per year. For those that have never tasted Cigales wine before, La Legua offer a perfect, affordable introduction to its delights with a superb portfolio that I found beautifully crafted, natural and refined. Importer: Steve Berardi, Denver, CO; (303) 329-3180; and Berry Brother & Rudd (UK).

From a region on the rise, this is nice Tempranillo, made in a lighter, food-friendly style. Which doesn’t mean it’s weak. On the contrary, the wine has good concentration and purity to go with fresh acids and an approachable texture. The flavors are of plum, cherry and licorice, while the finish is tight and comes in a couple of layers. Well made and easy to drink. ——M.S.(8/1/2003)—— 89