This is a co-fermented field blend made with roughly 70% Viognier and 30% Roussanne, all fermented in old oak. The vineyard is only about 1.5 acres in size, so only 75-90 cases are ever made. The 2016 Roussanne / Viognier gives up notions of honeysuckle, white peaches, applesauce and allspice with a waft of fresh hay. Medium to full-bodied, it has a nice phenolic (tannin) chew providing texture and freshness to the rich, seductive fruit, finishing on a lovely savory note. Drinking beautifully now, it should cellar gracefully for 10-12+ years.

The 2013 Roussanne/Viognier exhibits terrific acidity. It is a provocative, one-of-a-kind, singular white wine to be enjoyed during its first 2-3 years of life.

Another white wine I love, but it is more of a slut in terms of its hussy-like appeal, is the 2009 Vio Rous, a blend of 60% Roussanne and 40% Viognier that has been co-fermented. An exotic, flamboyant white, it boasts abundant aromas of honeysuckle, tropical fruits, mango and pineapples. This gorgeously fruity, pleasure-filled sex bomb of a wine can be enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. Part viticultural evangelist, part wine wizard and part musical composer, John Kongsgaard remains one of the more singular personalities and interesting wine producers of Napa Valley. I have written many times about his “death and resurrection” theory of winemaking, and whether one agrees or disagrees with him is irrelevant. The proof is in vino veritas, and that’s exactly what he does year in and year out. With the exception of his Syrah from the Hudson Vineyard and his Cabernet Sauvignon from David Abreu’s vineyards in St. Helena, everything is produced from the estate vineyard, a 6-acre parcel high in the mountains off Coombsville Road. For a number of years, Kongsgaard has produced a small quantity (200 cases) of a Chardonnay called The Judge (an homage to his father). Although it is aged in 100% new oak for at least 20 months, it reveals no evidence of wood. Like the regular Chardonnay, The Judge is made from an Old Wente clone of Chardonnay that is believed to have come from cuttings of the Corton-Charlemagne holdings of Louis Latour at least fifty years ago. Kongsgaard’s touch with Bordeaux varietals is not as magical as it is with Chardonnay and Syrah. Nevertheless, these are still outstanding efforts, and I think his 2009 Proprietary Red will match his finest vintage to date, the 2007. Fax (707) 226-2936

A white wine hussy, the blend of 60% Roussanne and 40% Viognier is now called VioRous. Along with those that come from Elaine and Manfred Krankl’s Sine Qua Non winery, Kongsgaard’s 2008 is the finest white Rhone Ranger blend I have tasted. Exotic, exuberant notes of honeyed lychee nuts, ripe peaches, pineapples, and subtle smoke soar from the glass of this easy to appreciate and drink wine. Big, fleshy, hedonistic, rich, and fruit-driven, I’m not sure how long it will last, but it is irresistible at present. From a top vintage for proprietor/winemaker John Kongsgaard, the 2007 Chardonnays are among the finest he has made to date. They combine great richness and bold flavor profiles with extraordinary minerality and definition. One-hundred percent whole clusters are used for the Syrahs, and Kongsgaard’s Syrahs have a very distinctive style. Fax: (707) 963-4512

One of Kongsgaard’s most intriguing offerings, and along with Sine Qua Non’s blend of Roussanne, Viognier, and Chardonnay, one of my two favorite dry white Rhone Rangers is the 2007 Roussanne/Viognier (60% and 40% respectively). Flamboyant notes of honeysuckle, lychee nuts, apricots, and caramelized peaches soar from the glass along with a cocktail of spring flowers. Sexy, full-bodied, hedonistic, and lavishly fruity, this is an exquisite white to drink over the next several years. . It is probably a “l(fā)ove it or leave it” wine, even for Rhone Ranger enthusiasts, but I love it. (Not yet released) The idiosyncratic, but brilliant producer of Chardonnay, Roussanne/Viognier, Syrah, and more recently, Cabernet Sauvignon, John Kongsgaard, and his low-tech, artisinal winemaking style have had an enormous influence on many top northern California winemakers. It’s always a treat to taste with him. All his wines are limited in quantity as the family’s vineyard in Coombsville is only 9 acres, so he draws fruit from special plots in the Hudson Vineyard for his Syrah, and more recently from some of David Abreu’s vineyards for his 350-case cuvee of Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2006 Chardonnays were underperforming compared to my notes from last year. This trend is apparent in many producers’ Chardonnays in this vintage. The exuberant fruit that was noticeable out of barrel seems to have become more reserved. Nevertheless, these are still top-notch Chardonnays, just not as brilliant as I first thought. Normally, Kongsgaard’s Chardonnays are better from bottle than from barrel. Kongsgaard employs no additives, proteins, or enzymes, ferments his Syrah in pungeons with indigenous yeasts, and does not sulphur the wine until long after malolactic is completed. In the huge Hudson Vineyard, he has an unusual block of vines planted totally in volcanic soils and shale. This is the source for his Syrah, one of the most provocative and individualistic Syrahs made in California Fax (707) 963-4512