The 2017 Sumo is made up of 84% Petite Sirah, 13% Syrah and 3% Viognier from the Shake Ridge vineyard, owned and farmed by Ann Kraemer. Aged 18 months in 60% new French oak, it has a deep garnet-purple color and delivers pronounced baked plums, boysenberries and mulberries scents with nuances of mossy tree bark, fungi, fragrant earth and allspice. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is densely laden with black fruit and earthy layers, finishing long and peppery. 295 cases produced.

The 2016 Sumo is blended of 93% Petite Sirah and 7% Viognier, aged 16 months in 66% new French oak. It is very deep purple-black in color and a little closed, revealing notes of crushed raspberries, black cherries and warm plums plus hints of wild blueberries, spice box and roses. The palate is full-bodied with a firm frame of very ripe, plush tannins and oodles of freshness lifting the red and black berry flavors to a long perfumed finish. 295 cases produced.

However, readers should not miss the 2011 Sumo, a blend of 85% Petite Sirah, 13% Syrah and 2% Viognier. Sadly, there are only 200 cases of this stunning Petite Sirah-dominated red. Its inky/purple color is followed by a sumptuous perfume of violets, blueberries, blackberries, camphor and a hint of graphite. This full-bodied, rich effort is the finest wine in the Keplinger portfolio. It should age effortlessly for 15-20 years. Tel. (707) 252-7477

The 2010 Sumo is a tremendous wine endowed with serious depth. Explosive and powerful, the 2010 covers every inch of the palate with black cherries, plums, menthol, and melted road tar. Hints of exotic spices develop later, adding layers of complexity and nuance. This is another 2010 that needs bottle age to settle down, but it is fabulous, even today. Here, too, though, the road comes to an end, as 2011 is the last vintage for the Sumo. The 2010 is 88% Petite Sirah and 10% Syrah, co-fermented with 2% Viognier, from Shake Ridge in the Sierra Foothills. This is another brilliant showing from Helen Keplinger. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Helen Keplinger has turned out a gorgeous set of 2010s to follow up on her 2009s. Now that Keplinger has moved on from her post at Bryant, hopefully she will have even more time to dedicate to her own wines. In addition to the 2010s, I also re-tasted the 2009s, most of which were a bit closed, perhaps in bottle shock. Tel. (707) 252-7417

The 2009 Sumo is super-sleek, polished and totally radiant, all qualities that are typical of the vintage. I especially like the plushness and depth of the fruit in the 2009. The round, sumptuous finish leaves a lasting impression. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Helen Keplinger is the winemaker at Bryant, where she now also makes her own wines with her husband, Douglas. Keplinger credits the years she spent working in Priorat as shaping her philosophy on wine and life. These Rhone blends are made from hillside vineyards in Amador County, El Dorado County and Knights Valley. The wines are aged in French oak, 20-65% new, depending on the wine. Racking is kept to a bare minimum and the wines are neither fined nor filtered. Readers owe it to themselves to check out these pure, handcrafted wines. Tel. (707) 252-7417