The 2015 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre has an expressive bouquet with white flowers tincturing the citrus fruit and apricot blossom and subtle sea spray aromas developing in the glass. The palate is very well balanced, borrowing some of the fatness from the Vaulorent but counterbalanced by a fine thread of acidity. It dovetails into a waxy-textured, slightly pithy, nutty and almost Meursault-like finish. This is a very finely tuned, delicious, sappy Montée de Tonnerre.

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Brouilland. The 2013 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre has a rich, botrytis-tinged bouquet with light wild honey aromas tincturing the citrus fruit, that estuarine influence less conspicuous that last year. The palate is well balanced with orange zest and white peach on the entry. The acidity is nicely judged and this Chablis seems to "flow" towards the finish, hints of spice lingering on the aftertaste. Perhaps just a smidgen below the bottle tasted last year, nevertheless I would still break into a smile if I found this on my dinner table. Tasted May 2016.

This wine was tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre surpassed previous bottles that I have encountered. Here, it has fine transparency on the nose, understated with fine minerality and tension. The palate is fresh and balanced with plenty of citrus fruit tinged with ginger towards the finish. This is a generous Chablis with a pleasing length in the mouth, perhaps one of the most sophisticated you will find this vintage.

The 2011 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre has a similar bouquet to the Fourchaume, quite earthy with a touch of fresh asparagus, although here there is great intensity. The palate is fresh and vibrant, quite saline in the mouth, a little chalkiness to the texture and the finish feels tightly wound at the moment. I would afford this another couple of years in bottle, because I feel that it has more to give. Tasted June 2016.

Exotic and beguiling notes define the 2010 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre. Ash, smoke, slate and white peach are some of the many nuances that emerge as this vivid wine opens up in the glass. The Montee de Tonnerre is one of the tighter 2010s here, and it needs further time in bottle, but it is beautiful. The Montee de Tonnerre is austere and precise, but fills out beautifully with air. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Once again, my tasting with Benoit Droin was one of the highlights of my trip to Chablis.Vintage 2011 was characterized by an early, easy and even flowering, which resulted in a generous crop. August rains bloated the grapes, which turned out to be a bit of an issue, as the harvest was several weeks earlier than normal. Droin began bringing in his 2011s on August 31st, three full weeks earlier than 2010. Droin describes 2011 as having lower acidity than 2010 and being better than 2005, 2006 and 2009 in a style that sits in between 2003 and 2007, if that makes sense. Droin’s 2011 are quite strong across the board, even if they lack the visceral thrill of the very best years. Personally, I prefer the 2010s, which I loved the minute I first tasted them from tank last year. The wines have a combination of fruit and acidity that is striking. Droin doesn’t seem to get a lot of attention in the press, but in my opinion, this is one of the very finest producers in Chablis. I have also had great luck with older bottles, as these are typically wines that age beautifully. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565