The 2015 Chablis Valmur has a detailed bouquet with yellow fruit, fig and light chalky scents that gain intensity in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a very sappy, saline entry. I appreciate the tension and mineral expression of this Valmur and toward the finish it maintains wonderful focus and a sense of energy. This is one of the best offerings from Brocard in 2015.

The 2010 Chablis Valmur is quite subtle and understated. This is another wine made in a very safe, conservative style. Where is the ripeness and sheer sexiness of Valmur? Anticipated maturity: 2013+. These 2011s and 2010s from the vast Brocard portfolio (which also includes Domaine Herve Azo) are quite representative of the respective years. The 2010s have excellent depth of fruit and acidity, while the 2011s are pretty, easygoing wines best suited to near-term drinking. In general terms, the Brocard wines tend to be fairly bold and up-front in style. Importers: Verity Wine Partners, New York, NY; tel. (212) 683-8763, Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500, Elite Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 526-6383, Vanguard Wines, Columbus, OH; tel. (614) 291-3493, Tenzing Wine & Spirits, Chicago, IL; tel. (312) 237-4000

The 2009 Chablis Valmur is an attractive wine with excellent textural depth. Nothing in particular stands out in this pretty, well-balanced Chablis. This is quite elegant and refined, but I don't see the visceral thrill of Valmur. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. I tasted a wide range of wines at Domaine Brocard with oenologist Nadine Gublin, including the wines of Brocard's other Chablis properties, which are reviewed separately. In 2009, the harvest began in mid-September. The wines were vinified with ambient yeasts in steel and/or oak, depending on the vineyard, and aged on their lees until the malos were finished. The Cote de Lechet, Fourchaume, Bougros, Valmur and Les Clos were fermented and aged in 100-hectoliter conical oak vats. Brocard bottled the 2009s in late 2010 and early 2011. The Brocard wines are generally quite rich and lush in texture relative to most of the other wines in the region. One of the other important characteristics of this lineup is that the most complete, successful bottlings don't always come from the most prestigious sites. I also noted that the house and vintage style marked the 2009s to a greater degree than at many other addresses, while the 2010s show more site specificity. A number of the 2010s were still undergoing malolactic fermentation, so I was only able to taste a selection of the wines from that year. The estate's vineyards are currently being converted to biodynamic farming. It will be interesting to see where the wines go from here. Importer: Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400