From a portion of this site that abuts Les Clos, and vinified in large cask, Brocard’s 2007 Chablis Valmur displays the grand cru virtues that were disappointingly and conspicuously absent from several of its barrique-raised stable mates. Lemon and pineapple offer a bright aromatic and lusciously juicy palate display that combines energy and cut with substantiality and textural nuance. Plum skin and citrus zest contribute to a pungent but still satisfyingly juicy finish tinged with salt and crushed stone, and evincing just a hint of heat. I would plan to enjoy this over the next 4-5 years. Enologist Nadine Gublin (also of Domaine Jacques Prieur) is now heading the team here, although I can’t claim that any change in style was noticeable to me after only one vintage, a vintage that certainly inherently contributed to the less than forthcoming nature of many of these wines, as well as to greater irregularity in quality than those of 2006. I found myself less satisfied with this year’s grand cru bottlings as a group – after being puzzled by how several of the 2006s showed at a comparable stage, too – than I was with those of ostensibly lesser pedigree. A majority of the acreage controlled by Brocard is now being farmed biodynamically, and Julien Brocard suggests he may soon set some sort of record for surface area under such a regimen.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Lean and tightly coiled, with its lemon, apple and stone notes locked up for now. There's energy and a vibrant finish, where the citrus and mineral let loose a little. Best from 2012 through 2024. 50 cases imported.??–BS??Region: France / Burgundy / Chablis Select to Add