A blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Chardonnay, the 2004 Chameleon is an unwooded white of considerable richness. A wonderful value, it displays well-ripened pears and apples on the nose. This broad, medium-bodied, silky-textured wine boasts a plush personality packed with white fruits, spices, and gooseberries that linger in its impressive finish. Drink it over the next 2 years. Importer: Vinnovative Imports, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 489-9463

A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, the 2003 Chameleon is a boiled peanut-scented wine. This value is light to medium-bodied, focused, and displays fresh mineral and lemon flavors. It should be consumed over the next year. Importer: Vinnovative Imports, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 489-9463

The 2002 Chameleon, an assemblage of 67% Sauvignon Blanc, 29% Chardonnay, and 4% Chenin Blanc reveals smoky mineral aromas as well as a lovely, satin-textured character. Light to medium-bodied, this pear, white pepper, and grapefruit rind-flavored effort is an excellent value. Importer: Vinnovative Imports, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 489-9463

Jardin, known as Jordan Winery throughout the world except for the United States, has fashioned this excellent value. The 1999 Chameleon, a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, and 15% Cabernet Franc, displays herbed blackberry aromas. This wine is medium-bodied, with copious amounts of sweet dark fruits that are intermingled with a slight vegetal streak. It is spicy, structured, and flavorful, yet short in the finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2005.Importer: Vinnovative Imports, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 489-9463