They softened the extraction and the use of oak with the 2015 Finca la Emperatriz Crianza, and it shows. They want the wines from the La Emperatriz estate to be longer rather than wider, while the new Las Cenizas (from Cenicero) is more voluptuous. This Crianza will not be released until June 2018 to give it some more time in bottle. It's a blend of Tempranillo with 4% Garnacha, 3% Viura and 1% Graciano from different plots, fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and matured in 80% American and 20% French oak barrels for 12 months. It's ripe and open and a little grapey. The palate is medium-bodied with abundant, slightly chalky tannins that might require more time and/or powerful food. 180,000 bottles and 9,200 magnums produced. It was bottled in April 2017.

In 2013, many of the top wines were not bottled and others saw their volumes reduced, which I wonder if it's the reason why the 2013 Finca La Emperatriz Crianza showed so well, as it probably had fruit that in other years must have gone to other wines. It's a blend of different plots and the varietal break up is approximately 95% Tempranillo, 3% Garnacha and 2% Viura (white). Since 2012, they have changed the style going for something more elegant, eliminating bleeding, with softer pumping over and maturing in barrels (mostly American oak) for some 14 months. It has a nose of ripe fruit and spices, quite balanced and elegant, and a similar, soft and silky palate, very drinkable. 136,600 bottles and 9,200 magnums.

The 2011 Finca la Emperatriz Crianza has a forward personality, quite aromatic and open, with showy notes of smoky bacon that transported me to the Northern Rh?ne for a minute. It is, of course, mostly Tempranillo with 3% Garnacha and 2% white Viura from different plots in the estate fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and matured for 14 months in American (80%) and French oak barrels. The oak is really well integrated, with spices but none of the overwhelming coconut aromas you find in many wines. The palate is serious, well-built and shows good density, structure and fine tannins. There are good, persistent flavors combining power and finesse, which is remarkable for a year like 2011. It grows in the glass, showing that it is at a nice place in the bottle evolution. A truly impressive Crianza, growing by the vintage, and keeping a very sensible price tag. This should be readily available as 172,800 bottles were produced. Very good value for the quality.

The 2010 Finca La Emperatriz Crianza has good intensity of aromas, clean and with notes of raspberries complicated by a background of sweet spices. The palate is very attractive and juicy with enough acidity and the raspberries making a comeback in the aftertaste. This is very good value. Drink 2014-2018. Bodegas La Emperatriz is a young company, created in 1999, with the solid foundation of a great vineyard in Banos de Rioja, 10 kilometers southwest of Haro in a cold zone of Rioja Alta that had belonged to Empress (hence the name Emperatriz) Eugenia de Montijo, wife of Napoleon, which seems to be going from strength to strength offering wines crafted exclusively from their 85 hectares of estate vineyard. This is a name to follow, although I found some wines where the oak treatment seemed a bit excessive for the fruit and might require some fine tuning. Imported by New Vinergia, NY; www.vinergia.com

From 15- to 45-year-old vines, the 2008 Finca La Emperatriz Crianza has a lifted, expressive bouquet of black plum, cassis, orange sorbet and small red cherries that demonstrate good intensity. The palate is very well-balanced, with firm tannins that exert a gentle but insistent grip. It builds nicely with crisp blackberry and raspberry intermixed with white pepper and sea salt. This segues into a solid, tannic finish that suggests this “masculine” Crianza would benefit another 12 months in bottle. This is very well-made. Drink 2013-2018. Bodegas La Emperatriz, named after its 19th century owner “Eugenia de Montijo” (the wife of Napoleon III), is located in Rioja Alta. It is owned by Victor and Eduardo Hernaiz, and the present winemaker is David Gonzalez. Theirs is a hugely impressive portfolio that singles out specific parcels and terroirs, though you should not ignore their excellent Crianza and Reserva. Factor in a wallet-friendly price and you have a winning formula. Importer: Vinergia USA, NY; www.vinergia.com