From 15- to 45-year-old vines, the 2008 Finca La Emperatriz Crianza has a lifted, expressive bouquet of black plum, cassis, orange sorbet and small red cherries that demonstrate good intensity. The palate is very well-balanced, with firm tannins that exert a gentle but insistent grip. It builds nicely with crisp blackberry and raspberry intermixed with white pepper and sea salt. This segues into a solid, tannic finish that suggests this “masculine” Crianza would benefit another 12 months in bottle. This is very well-made. Drink 2013-2018. Bodegas La Emperatriz, named after its 19th century owner “Eugenia de Montijo” (the wife of Napoleon III), is located in Rioja Alta. It is owned by Victor and Eduardo Hernaiz, and the present winemaker is David Gonzalez. Theirs is a hugely impressive portfolio that singles out specific parcels and terroirs, though you should not ignore their excellent Crianza and Reserva. Factor in a wallet-friendly price and you have a winning formula. Importer: Vinergia USA, NY; www.vinergia.com