The 2005 Anfora Breg represents a blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Riesling Italico. Anfora Breg shows even broader shoulders compared to the Anfora Ribolla Gialla with a more defined sense of tannic structure on the finish. That extra heft gives support to chestnut honey, caramelized sugar, candied apricot, crushed sea shell, candied orange peel and Sicilian almond marzipan. There’s a steady sense of lift when it comes to the buoyancy of the bouquet. This wine will continue to evolve. Drink: 2015-2025. More than a winery, Gravner is a pilgrimage destination that has reached epic cult status among wine intelligentsia. The reason has more to do with clay than grapes. Josko Gravner famously abandoned the use of wood some 40 years ago. In the late 1980s, following a trip the Caucasus he learned about the ancient use of clay vessels for making and storing wine. In 1997, he made his first amphorae-aged Ribolla Gialla. Today, there are more than a dozen high profile wineries in Italy who have followed his example and have embraced this extreme branch of the “natural wine” movement. Gravner’s wines are indeed controversial and polarizing. Those who profess to love them make an equally bold statement as those who don’t. The important thing is to take a stand. Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, www.domaineselect.com

The 2004 Breg Anfora is a subdued, elegant refined white laced with nuanced fruit. This is a relatively approachable, medium-bodied Breg that should offer fine drinking earlier than some of the more extroverted vintages such as 2003 and 2005. Breg is Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Riesling Italico. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. There are times when wine becomes of secondary importance. This is one of those times. The tragic passing of Josko Gravner’s son Miha, 27, in a motorcycle accident a few months back is a painful reminder that life is fleeting. I met Miha Gravner only once, during a visit to the estate last year when it was clear he represented the future of the winery. An avid basketball player, he was tall, trim and the picture of youth. As a father, I can only imagine that the loss of a son must be the deepest of losses, but I hope, in some small way, the Gravner family will find a way to heal. In this context, wine seems to have relatively little importance, but Gravner has two very fine vintages on his hands with his 2004 and 2005 whites. Gravner ferments his whites in terra cotta amphorae. After the alcoholic fermentation, some of the wine remains in amphorae into the following spring, when it is added back to the rest of the wine, which has been aging in cask. The wines complete their aging in large, neutral oak. These remain some of the most unique wines being made anywhere on the planet. They are especially remarkable for their textural elegance and finesse. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2003 Breg Anfora is a richly textured, compelling wine loaded with the essence of candied orange peel, sweet spices, apricots and flowers. Nothing in particular stands out here, just the wine’s exquisite balance and silky tannins. Today the Breg comes across as slightly more linear than the Ribolla, but it, too, is a winner. The Breg spent seven months in amphora, and was subsequently aged in cask, with just one racking per year until it was bottled. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2013. My visit with Josko Gravner in May was memorable, as we spent several hours tasting through every cask in the cellar. Given that Gravner keeps his wines in oak for a minimum of several years, the tasting amounted to multiple vintages of each of his wines, which was a fascinating exploration into this producer’s style. No other grower in Italy has pushed the boundaries so ambitiously as has Gravner over the last 20+ years. To be sure, even by his own admission Gravner has made mistakes, but at these levels there can’t be innovation without the occasional failure. Today, Gravner has inspired a whole new generation of younger producers, but at the end of the day, Gravner remains in a league by himself. When I taste these wines I often feel I am in front of the work of a gifted musician or painter, where the work is easily classified into periods that each hold significance. His approach reminds me of that of Miles Davis; always looking forward and never behind. Over the coming years Gravner plans to focus just on two native varieties, Ribolla and Pignolo and will phase out his international grapes. Today, the wines are fermented in terra cotta amphora, where they stay until spring. The wines are then racked into casks where they spend several years prior to being bottled. As of May 2008, Gravner still had a portion of his whites in amphora, as he is experimenting with longer aging periods in the terracotta vessels. Gravner’s “whites” are really much more like reds in terms of their structure and weight. It is therefore not surprising that Gravner favors hot, arid vintages, including 2003, which he places among his favorites, something of a contrarian view in the region. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

A totally unique blend of Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Riesling Italico, Breg is a labor of love with a deep golden color and intense aromas of caramel, butterscotch, mature apricot and chewy caramel. The wine’s density is thick, creamy and smooth. Try it with red wine foods such as succulent lamb or honey-roasted ham.——M.L.(3/1/2009)—— 92