The 2004 Breg Anfora is a subdued, elegant refined white laced with nuanced fruit. This is a relatively approachable, medium-bodied Breg that should offer fine drinking earlier than some of the more extroverted vintages such as 2003 and 2005. Breg is Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Riesling Italico. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. There are times when wine becomes of secondary importance. This is one of those times. The tragic passing of Josko Gravner’s son Miha, 27, in a motorcycle accident a few months back is a painful reminder that life is fleeting. I met Miha Gravner only once, during a visit to the estate last year when it was clear he represented the future of the winery. An avid basketball player, he was tall, trim and the picture of youth. As a father, I can only imagine that the loss of a son must be the deepest of losses, but I hope, in some small way, the Gravner family will find a way to heal. In this context, wine seems to have relatively little importance, but Gravner has two very fine vintages on his hands with his 2004 and 2005 whites. Gravner ferments his whites in terra cotta amphorae. After the alcoholic fermentation, some of the wine remains in amphorae into the following spring, when it is added back to the rest of the wine, which has been aging in cask. The wines complete their aging in large, neutral oak. These remain some of the most unique wines being made anywhere on the planet. They are especially remarkable for their textural elegance and finesse. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799