The 2004 Barolo Fortuna should be opened well in advance. The bottle I tasted needed a full 24 hours for some of the funkiness in the bouquet to blow off and the tannins to soften. When it did, I was greeted by a chorus of wonderfully perfumed, sweet cherries, flowers, licorice and leather, all wrapped around a powerful frame. Where this wine will go from here is anybody’s guess, but it is most likely to be upwards. The Fortuna is not a new Barolo, but rather the straight 2004 Barolo with a special label drawn by proprietor Oscar Farinetti. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. These new releases from Borgogno are hit-and-miss, but the best wines in the collection prove the estate has all of the ingredients to make important Baroli of the highest level. Importer: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 530-4021