Georges Duboeuf Chateau de Nervers Brouilly, Beaujolais, France

杜寶夫訥本斯莊園布魯依干紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：14345

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The Duboeuf 2009 Brouilly Chateau de Nervers – tasted from tank –brims with ripe blackberry and blueberry, informing a bright, juicy, salt-tinged palate and leading to an invigorating, bright, lip-smacking finish whose character contrasts strikingly with that of Chateau de la Perriere from this same collection, and is also I suspect, capable of 3-4 years of interesting evolution. Duboeuf opines that the two distinctive expressions of minerality are typical for their respective properties. The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

There are 6,500 cases of the 2008 Brouilly Chateau de Nervers – even more than the already relatively large lot of Duboeuf’s flower-labeled Brouilly – and its bitter-sweet piquancy and palate-staining intensity of cassis and blueberry can certainly not be faulted for lack of concentration. It is impressive, but frankly a bit severe and lacking in nuance, which perhaps 6-9 months in bottle will address. This will certainly find its place at table over the next couple of years. Georges Duboef says this amphitheatric site always ripens several days ahead of any other fruit that they or their affiliated domaines pick in Brouilly, and I wonder whether its vinification might not have benefited from a lighter touch. Consistent in style and amazingly low in price, the myriad Beaujolais bottlings of George Duboeuf continue to represent outstanding values in the American marketplace. In April, I tasted nearly their entire range of 2008s, with few exceptions, already bottled. The overwhelming majority of these made my cut as value recommendations, including some – from among that wide range of domaines with which Duboeuf has long-standing commercial relationships – that might not show up in the U.S. market. The so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees continue to bear a variation on this negociant’s signature flower labels, but to save space in our print edition, please assume that any wine not otherwise designated refers to a member of that class. In general, I have preferred DuBoeuf’s Beaujolais bottlings in their youth, with a few of the domaine crus having exhibited with bottle age a complexity concomitant with the effort to cellar them, and where not otherwise noted, my recommendation is to enjoy the following wines over the next couple of years. The Duboeuf 2008 Beaujolais-Villages – at 30,000 cases, representing their largest single lot of wine, and twice the volume of their appellation Beaujolais – was a bit green and rustic by comparison, and multiple bottles of a Chateau des Vierres bottling were oddly inexpressive and drying on the occasion of my visit. Duboeuf’s flower label 2008 Fleurie is another of their wines of this vintage that is atypically austere, and in this instance a bit much so, and their 2008 Fleurie Domaine des Quatre Vents and Fleurie Chateau des Bachelards were a bit drying and rough under the influence both of its barrel component and its very recent bottling when I tasted it.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463