The 2012 Belsham Awatere Estate Chardonnay is the current release. Barrel fermented and aged in oak for ten months, it then aged five years in bottle. Give it some time after pouring (or decant it) to allow some struck-match aromas to dissipate, after which notes of roasted nuts, popcorn and buttered peaches and tangerines will emerge. It's medium-bodied but feels ripe and rich, with a silky texture and a bright, citrusy finish. I'm confident it will age gracefully for at least another 4-5 years.

Naturally fermented in 400 liter French oak barrels (25% new) and aged in oak for 10 months, the 2008 Chardonnay gives aromas of lemon curd, apricot tart and spiced apple slices over hints of toasted almonds, honeycomb and meal. Medium bodied, it has a pleasant silkiness to the texture with just enough warm citrus and apple flavors enlivened with crisp acidity and a long honey-nut finish. Drink it now through 2014. No known USA importer.

——J.C.(11/1/2008)—— 86