Feudi di San Gregorio Campanaro, Campania, Italy

福地酒園坎帕娜羅白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：6651

The 2010 Campanaro is a blend of 60% Fiano and 40% Greco. Layers of expressive white stone fruits, crushed rocks, lime and licorice are woven together beautifully. Aging in French oak gives the wine much of its volume and shape. As is often the case, the Campanaro is the richest of these whites. As good as it is, I tend to prefer the single-variety wines. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2015. Once again, Feudi impresses for the sheer breadth of their range. From top to bottom, this is a terrific set of wines from one of the benchmark wineries in Campania, and all of Italy, for that matter. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The 2009 Campanaro (Fiano, Greco) is surprisingly awkward and inward, especially for a vintage that yielded so many radiant whites. Both bottles I tasted were good, but not quite up to customary level for this wine. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Feudi di San Gregorio is one of the leaders in the modern-day Renaissance of Campanian oenology. Readers who want to learn more about the estate's history may want to reference my article 'The Noble Wines of Southern Italy' in Issue 190, which also includes verticals of the estate's flagships Serpico and Taurasi Riserva Piano di Montevergine. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the new release of the Riserva this year. For ease of reference I have included my note on Feudi's Aglianico del Vulture here, although the wine is, of course, from Basilicata. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

Campanaro is a unique blend of Fiano and Greco grapes that opens with a beautiful bouquet of stone fruit, honey, white almond and Golden Delicious apple. It a dry, crisp wine with a focused, fine feel in the mouth.——M.L.(3/1/2012)—— 90

The 2008 Campanaro (Fiano, Greco) is a gorgeous, vivid white laced with ash, earthiness, white peaches, minerals, all of which come together in a textured, elegant style. All of the elements are in perfect balance in this appealing, delicious white. This is the most successful of Feudi’s high-end whites. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Feudi di San Gregorio is coming back from a period in which it was essentially a victim of its own success. The winery’s early and numerous accolades plus fast, unbridled growth proved to be too much to handle. Today, under the leadership of proprietor Antonio Capaldo, Feudi seems to be much more grounded than in the past. Capaldo boasts an impressive resume, replete with world-class academic credentials and stints with Lazard in Paris and McKinsey in Italy. Despite his background, Capaldo remains humble, eager to learn and well aware of the family winery’s missteps in the past, all qualities which should serve him very well going forward. Noted agronomist Pierpaolo Sirch oversees the work in the vineyards and cellar now that Feudi is moving away from relying on consultants in favor of doing more in-house. The flashy, oak-laden style of previous vintages is gradually being phased out as Feudi relies more on the considerable pedigree of its vineyards. This will be a fascinating story to follow in the coming years. For now Feudi is still a work in progress, and in many cases, the entry-level wines provide more pleasure and varietal character than the higher-end bottlings. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The estate’s 2007 Campanaro (Fiano and Greco) is a sweet, honeyed white that reveals notable clarity and depth in its ripe, perfumed fruit and spiced French oak. The wine reveals good length in a round, supple style. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Feudi di San Gregorio continues to expand its offerings, and at some point it is only natural to wonder if there isn’t some degree of diminishing returns here, particularly after the undistinguished showing of some of the wines in the line-up. In addition to these wines, I also tasted the new range of methode champenoise wines Feudi is making in association with Anselme Selosse. Feudi has created a lot of buzz about these wines, but for now they remain very much a work in progress and have a long way to go before they can compete with Italy’s finest sparkling wines, not to mention those of one of Champagne’s most iconic producers. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642