The ambitiously priced 2014 Syrah Lewis Vineyard exhibits aromas of ripe berry preserve, sweet spices and creamy new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied and chewy, with surprisingly juicy acids, but it lacks the concentration and depth at the core to integrate all its tannin and new oak.

The 2013 Syrah Lewis Vineyard possesses more noticeable oak in its chocolaty black raspberry, blackberry and spice aromas and flavors. Made from 100% Syrah from a site in the Columbia Valley, it has medium to full-bodied richness, a lively, fresh style reminiscent of the Northern Rh?ne and a great finish.

A total blockbuster is the 2012 Syrah Lewis Vineyard, and it’s just another example of the quality of the 2012 vintage in Washington state. Made from 100% Syrah aged in mostly French oak (25% American oak was in there, but in this case it doesn’t detract), this tight, concentrated, focused Syrah gives up lots of scorched earth, vanilla bean, blackberry and maybe a hint of asphalt; it has ripe tannin, integrated acidity, and fabulous purity. This is a beautiful wine that will drink nicely through 2032.

Another terrific effort, and one of the strongest Syrahs in the vintage, the 2011 Syrah Lewis Vineyard is 100% Syrah that spent 30 months in 90% new French oak, which you’d never know by tasting it. Gorgeous blackberry, blueberry, wild herbs, licorice, chocolate and hints of crushed rock all emerge from this beauty, and it flows onto the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, bright acidity and a seamless, elegant profile. It’s enjoyable now, but will shine for another decade at least as well.

The 2009 Syrah Lewis Vineyard is gorgeous, with a deep, rich and concentrated profile that carries notions of black fruits, pepper, ground herbs and hints of meatiness. Full-bodied, seamless and layered on the palate, it has fine tannin and perfectly integrated acidity, all suggesting it will evolve gracefully for upwards of 12-15 years. Tel. (509) 529-4685; www.dunhamcellars.com