The 2004 Syrah Artist Series was raised in 70% new French and American oak. Dark ruby-colored, it offers loads of spice box scents, blueberry, and smoky, gamey nuances. It is backed by bracing acidity, intense flavors, and excellent length. Give it 3-5 years to evolve and drink it through 2025.Tel. (509) 529-4685; www.dunhamcellars.com

Winemaker Eric Dunham was the first to latch onto the fruit coming from this exceptional site in the Rattlesnake Hills, and this is as good as any Syrah made in Washington. An awesome nose with spectacular intensity spills out of the glass, carrying superb raspberry scents. The wine is crisp and focused, intense and nuanced. Flavors float from raspberry into the cherry cola realm, heading for a lingering, elegant finish.——P.G.(11/15/2006)—— 94