A 2005 Beaune Vieilles Vignes – including a significant portion of whole clusters in the vinification, as well as of premier cru Montrevenots from high above the Clos des Mouches on the border with Pommard – displays fine-grained tannins and a flattering creaminess of texture, deep richness of black cherry and raspberry fruit, meat, soy, and leather. For all of its ripeness and generosity of fruit, there is no superficial sweetness on show here, and the wine never lets one forget the more mysterious animal and mineral characteristics of which pinot alone is capable. A Patrick Lesec Selection, Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23; Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327 0808