Blackberries, plums and a touch of oak appear on the nose of the 2019 Crozes Hermitage le Rouvre. Full-bodied and concentrated, it's richly tannic yet fully ripe, with layers of rich, velvety tannins unfolding through the long, licorice-tinged finish.

Yann Chafe's 2017 Crozes Hermitage le Rouvre aged in gently used demi-muids (second and third use), acquiring a dusting of cedary pencil shavings and baking spices over its dark, plummy fruit. It's full-bodied and rich, with a degree of concentration and chewy tannins unusual for the appellation, giving it the potential to age for a decade or more.

From a single parcel of 55- to 60-year-old vines, the 2016 Crozes Hermitage le Rouvre is so seductive and drinkable right now. Violets, peppery spice, blueberries and raspberries come together in this medium-bodied wine that's silky, intriguing and just downright delicious.

From 50-year-old vines grown near the Pont de l'Isere, the 2015 Crozes Hermitage le Rouvre is a terrific effort. Aged in demi-muids, only five to ten percent of which are new, it's full-bodied and creamy in texture, ripe without being over-ripe, and loaded with blueberries, cassis and spice. Priced in the mid $30 range (I've seen it for less in Europe), it's a screaming deal.

The flagship Crozes Hermitage release is the 2014 Crozes Hermitage Le Rouvre. This medium-bodied effort also offers classic Northern Rh?ne notes of dark fruits, earth, pepper and assorted background meatiness. Medium-bodied, nicely textured, elegant and fresh, it does well in the vintage and should drink nicely through 2022.