The 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is a terrific success, unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers, confit citrus and oatmeal. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and complete, it's fleshy and seamless, with fine depth at the core, racy acids and a long, expansive finish. After several years where this site bore the brunt of hail and frost, Montée de Tonnerre is back with a vengeance.

Meeting the optimist expirations I established a year ago, the 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre offers up aromas of lemon oil, freshly baked bread, crisp green apple, white flowers, wet stones and oyster jus. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's tensile and dynamic, with tangy acids, fine depth at the core and a long, sapid finish.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre opens in the glass with notes of waxy lemon rind, oyster shell and a light framing of reduction. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and chalky, with a touch less cut and character than is found in Fèvre's best renditions of this site, those qualities likely a casualty of the frost that struck Montée de Tonnerre this year.

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre comes from two hectares of vines split over three types of terroir. It has a crisp, fruits de mer-scented bouquet with plenty of dew-speckled Granny Smith apples. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, saline in the mouth and fine weight toward the finish, with plenty of persistence. This has great potential and could turn out to be one of William Fevre's best premier crus this year. Excellent.