The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre opens in the glass with notes of waxy lemon rind, oyster shell and a light framing of reduction. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and chalky, with a touch less cut and character than is found in Fèvre's best renditions of this site, those qualities likely a casualty of the frost that struck Montée de Tonnerre this year.