The 2010 Meursault Les Charmes (from Charmes Dessus) is striking in the way it combines the richness of the vintage with veins of supporting minerality. There is an understated, weightless quality in the Charmes that is highly appealing, while the density of the year comes through mostly on the intense, palate staining finish. It could use another year or two of bottle age. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Vincent Girardin recently sold his operation to Compagnie des Vins d’Autrefois, which previously had an ownership stake in the company. As part of the transaction, Girardin keeps eight hectares of vineyards, from which he will continue to supply the house. I am told that all the other fruit contracts remain in place, ensuring continuity in the maison’s range. Long-time winemaker Eric Germain, who has worked alongside Girardin for ten years, remains at the helm. So far, it looks like a little has changed, but it is early days so we will see. Germain told me the 2010s were harvested beginning on September 5. The premier and grand crus spent 18 months in oak (20% new), followed by two months in steel before being bottled in April and May 2012. As I wrote last year, the Girardin wines have undergone a pretty dramatic stylistic shift over the last few years. Today, the wines are made in a brighter, more focused style with less of the overt richness and oak influence the winemaking team believes was contributing to the premature evolution of the wines. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Baked apple, lemon candy, and orange zest mark the nose of Girardin’s 2006 Meursault Charmes, which comes from three parcels in the lower part of this cru, from vines of 45 years’ average age. Rich polished, and ample, it spreads impressively across the palate and finishes with impressive purity and sweetness of fruit, and just a hint of heat. I tasted a wide selection including all of the top crus of Vincent Girardin’s truly vast output (from nearly fifty acres of vines plus a wide range of contracts as negociant), the wines having been pre-assembled from barrel for my tasting (hence the wide point spreads). Girardin is at pains to press very gently and he did only limited lees-stirring in 2006. He favors 20, 30, and 40% new wood for his village, premier cru, and grand cru wines, respectively. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.

The 2002 Meursault-Charmes offers a nose of pears, apples, spices, and white flowers. This exceptionally broad, lush, velvety-textured wine is light to medium-bodied and displays hazelnuts, pears, and spices. Projected maturity: now-2011. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802. In addition, Vincent Girardin sells many of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label to European Cellars, Eric Solomon, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949

Aromatically revealing buttered white flowers, the 2001 Meursault-Charmes is a medium-bodied wine packed with toasted nuts and spices. Extremely elegant, it has admirable depth, concentration, and length. This medium-bodied wine should be drunk over the next 6 years. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 Note: Vincent Girardin also bottles some of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label, imported by Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565.

The creamy spice-scented 2000 Meursault Charmes is a perfumed, feminine wine. Light to medium-bodied, it displays well-defined white peach, pear, and stone flavors that are intermingled with notes of potpourri. Anticipated maturity: now-2009. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802. In addition, Vincent Girardin sells many of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label to European Cellars, Eric Solomon, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949