Wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, white flowers, citrus zest, pastry cream and nutmeg, the 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru is full-bodied, ample and multidimensional, with a satiny attack that segues into a fleshy, layered, impressively complete mid-palate. Animated by racy acids and concluding with a long, resonant finish, it's a wine that lives up to this famed vineyard's reputation.

The brilliant 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru soars from the glass with aromas of pear, hazelnuts, orange oil, confit citrus, pastry cream and freshly baked bread. Full-bodied, deep and layered, it's vibrant and concentrated, with high mid-palate volume and impressive structural tension. Concluding with a long, resonant finish, this can stand alongside the vineyard's finest exemplars.

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru is showing spectacularly well, mingling notes of pear and citrus oil with hints of white flowers, fresh nutmeg and warm bread. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's deep and satiny, with fabulous concentration, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. From a first-rate source in Le Montrachet itself, this cuvée numbers among the top renditions of this fabled site.

Unfortunately, there are a mere 25 cases of the 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru, but readers lucky enough to secure a bottle or two are in for a treat. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of peach, citrus blossom, honeycomb, warm bread and anise, it's full-bodied, layered and immensely enveloping, its satiny and caressing attack segueing into a deep, concentrated core. Long and complete, this is a brilliant rendition of this great vineyard. Readers should note that, like the Batard, this derives from a different source from the Girardin Montrachets of yesteryear.

Girardin’s 2010 Montrachet, from the Chassagne side, saturates the palate with juicy peaches, nectarines, butter, flowers and spices, all of which come together nicely in the glass. This is a decidedly rich, intense style of Montrachet. Here, too, the fruit dominates over structural elements. Overall, the 2010 Montrachet is a big, dramatic, at times burly wine that doesn’t appear to be meaningfully more complex than many of the premier crus. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Vincent Girardin recently sold his operation to Compagnie des Vins d’Autrefois, which previously had an ownership stake in the company. As part of the transaction, Girardin keeps eight hectares of vineyards, from which he will continue to supply the house. I am told that all the other fruit contracts remain in place, ensuring continuity in the maison’s range. Long-time winemaker Eric Germain, who has worked alongside Girardin for ten years, remains at the helm. So far, it looks like a little has changed, but it is early days so we will see. Germain told me the 2010s were harvested beginning on September 5. The premier and grand crus spent 18 months in oak (20% new), followed by two months in steel before being bottled in April and May 2012. As I wrote last year, the Girardin wines have undergone a pretty dramatic stylistic shift over the last few years. Today, the wines are made in a brighter, more focused style with less of the overt richness and oak influence the winemaking team believes was contributing to the premature evolution of the wines. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802