Unfortunately, there are a mere 25 cases of the 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru, but readers lucky enough to secure a bottle or two are in for a treat. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of peach, citrus blossom, honeycomb, warm bread and anise, it's full-bodied, layered and immensely enveloping, its satiny and caressing attack segueing into a deep, concentrated core. Long and complete, this is a brilliant rendition of this great vineyard. Readers should note that, like the Batard, this derives from a different source from the Girardin Montrachets of yesteryear.