The 2013 Meursault 1er Cru le Porusot had a slight reduction on the nose, but underneath there is real drive, real mineralité coming through, with fantastic delineation. The palate is lively and vivacious, with superb acidity, again just a touch of reduction, but there is a lovely twist of sour lemon and ginger on the long, sustained finish. This is an outstanding Meursault from Jean-Marc and it should give one or two years of pleasure (if you can resist opening a bottle.)

The 2012 Meursault 1er Cru le Porusot comes from two parcels and offers a more tertiary bouquet at the moment, quite granitic and linear, aloof but direct. The palate is very well balanced on the entry and comes at you like an express train. Not a subtle Meursault but why should it be? This just delivers spiced citric fruit that like the Tessons, fans out on a very intense and energetic, lemongrass-tinged finish. This may merit a higher evaluation down the line.

The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Porusot (spelled with an “s” not “z”!) comes from two parcels. It has a scintillating, vibrant mineral-driven bouquet stylistically equidistant between Puligny and Meursault. The palate is extremely well-balanced with immense precision, starting off with real race and drive and then easing back toward the finish that offers just a touch of spice. This is another superb Meursault ‘11 from Jean-Marc. Drink now-2025. Wine is full of hyperbole, now more than ever, but not with respect to the exceptional wines of Jean-Marc Roulot, a grower that has consistently wowed my palate for several years. Although I have met him intermittently in London, this was the first time I had visited his winery on the outskirts of Meursault, just up the road from Coche-Dury. I wonder if their geographical proximity has something to do with stylistic similarities between the two addresses since nobody captures mineralite like these two artisans. It was a good job I penciled in an appointment this week under clement skies. As we descend to his spotlessly clean, relatively capacious cellar he informs me that it was under several inches of water after the previous week’s deluges in late May. Jean-Marc is an engaging vigneron, as one might expect from the former professional actor. I should put that in the present tense since he was about to film a French drama in Beaune, playing a gendarme rather than a winemaker. We tasted a handful of slightly older wines before broaching the 2011s. Moving on to a comprehensive run through his 2011s that had been bottled between January and April, I asked him for his sentiment toward the growing season. “I feel positive toward the vintage after the 2010,” he enthused, “as it is always difficult after such a lauded vintage. The main factor is that in 2011 the grapes were healthy and everything was clean. This was not the case in 2010, which needed some sorting. Maybe the wines are not as powerful, but they are more elegant and precise with better terroir expression. Many things during the season were similar to 2007: hot spring with early flowering; July not so good but flowering and harvest early. We began 24 August with the full team beginning on the 28 August. The 2011s have lower total acidity than 2010 but pH levels are a little better. Also, alcohol potential was around 0.8 degrees lower. I feel more comfortable with this level of alcohol, around 12.5%, than say 13.5% to 14%, as the terroir is expressed better.” Needless to say, Roulot’s 2011s lived up to my expectations as some of the finest white Burgundy wines in 2011, perhaps not quite right up with the very best I have encountered from this address, but utterly delicious and exquisitely crafted. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.

The 2010 Meursault 1er Cru Porusot has hints of yellow flowers, dandelion and buttercup, plenty of minerals and even a hint of fresh sweet corn! The palate is very well-balanced with crisp acidity, hints of rosewater in the background, precise and somehow, sedate toward the finish. This succinct Meursault will probably benefit one or two more years in bottle. Drink 2014-2025. Wine is full of hyperbole, now more than ever, but not with respect to the exceptional wines of Jean-Marc Roulot, a grower that has consistently wowed my palate for several years. Although I have met him intermittently in London, this was the first time I had visited his winery on the outskirts of Meursault, just up the road from Coche-Dury. I wonder if their geographical proximity has something to do with stylistic similarities between the two addresses since nobody captures mineralite like these two artisans. It was a good job I penciled in an appointment this week under clement skies. As we descend to his spotlessly clean, relatively capacious cellar he informs me that it was under several inches of water after the previous week’s deluges in late May. Jean-Marc is an engaging vigneron, as one might expect from the former professional actor. I should put that in the present tense since he was about to film a French drama in Beaune, playing a gendarme rather than a winemaker. We tasted a handful of slightly older wines before broaching the 2011s. Moving on to a comprehensive run through his 2011s that had been bottled between January and April, I asked him for his sentiment toward the growing season. “I feel positive toward the vintage after the 2010,” he enthused, “as it is always difficult after such a lauded vintage. The main factor is that in 2011 the grapes were healthy and everything was clean. This was not the case in 2010, which needed some sorting. Maybe the wines are not as powerful, but they are more elegant and precise with better terroir expression. Many things during the season were similar to 2007: hot spring with early flowering; July not so good but flowering and harvest early. We began 24 August with the full team beginning on the 28 August. The 2011s have lower total acidity than 2010 but pH levels are a little better. Also, alcohol potential was around 0.8 degrees lower. I feel more comfortable with this level of alcohol, around 12.5%, than say 13.5% to 14%, as the terroir is expressed better.” Needless to say, Roulot’s 2011s lived up to my expectations as some of the finest white Burgundy wines in 2011, perhaps not quite right up with the very best I have encountered from this address, but utterly delicious and exquisitely crafted. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.

Meanwhile, the 2009 Meursault 1er Cru Porusot has a stunning, mineral-rich bouquet that is reminiscent of Coche-Dury, and there is no higher praise than that in my book. The palate is very well-defined with a marine-like tincture, a hint of iodine infusing the citric fruit with very good weight on the finish. This has more complexity and depth than the 2010, a multi-faceted Meursault that is unaware of its potential. Wine is full of hyperbole, now more than ever, but not with respect to the exceptional wines of Jean-Marc Roulot, a grower that has consistently wowed my palate for several years. Although I have met him intermittently in London, this was the first time I had visited his winery on the outskirts of Meursault, just up the road from Coche-Dury. I wonder if their geographical proximity has something to do with stylistic similarities between the two addresses since nobody captures mineralite like these two artisans. It was a good job I penciled in an appointment this week under clement skies. As we descend to his spotlessly clean, relatively capacious cellar he informs me that it was under several inches of water after the previous week’s deluges in late May. Jean-Marc is an engaging vigneron, as one might expect from the former professional actor. I should put that in the present tense since he was about to film a French drama in Beaune, playing a gendarme rather than a winemaker. We tasted a handful of slightly older wines before broaching the 2011s. Moving on to a comprehensive run through his 2011s that had been bottled between January and April, I asked him for his sentiment toward the growing season. “I feel positive toward the vintage after the 2010,” he enthused, “as it is always difficult after such a lauded vintage. The main factor is that in 2011 the grapes were healthy and everything was clean. This was not the case in 2010, which needed some sorting. Maybe the wines are not as powerful, but they are more elegant and precise with better terroir expression. Many things during the season were similar to 2007: hot spring with early flowering; July not so good but flowering and harvest early. We began 24 August with the full team beginning on the 28 August. The 2011s have lower total acidity than 2010 but pH levels are a little better. Also, alcohol potential was around 0.8 degrees lower. I feel more comfortable with this level of alcohol, around 12.5%, than say 13.5% to 14%, as the terroir is expressed better.” Needless to say, Roulot’s 2011s lived up to my expectations as some of the finest white Burgundy wines in 2011, perhaps not quite right up with the very best I have encountered from this address, but utterly delicious and exquisitely crafted. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.