There's only one 350-liter barrel of Colin's 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières, and it's one of the highlights of the range. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear and citrus oil mingled with notions of wet chalk, struck match and wheat toast, it's medium to full-bodied, taut and incisive, with racy acids and terrific concentration, concluding with a long, penetrating finish.

The 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières has also turned out well, unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, freshly baked bread, crisp stone fruit, hazelnuts, wheat toast and a subtle hint of fresh herbs. Medium to full-bodied, ample and lively, it's elegantly textural, with a bright spine of acidity and a saline finish. I suspect this will put on weight with bottle age.

The 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières exhibits notes of crisp orchard, citrus zest, freshly baked bread, toasted almonds and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, racy and incisive, it's a tightly wound, electric wine despite the warm, generous vintage. At this early stage, this is even more impressive than Pierre-Yves Colin's Chassagne Caillerets—something that isn't invariably the case.