The 2018 Saint Joseph Clos de Cuminaille had been blended but then put back into barrel, so I tasted from two barrels of different ages. The new one showed vanilla accents, but both highlighted ripe cherries, a medium to full-bodied palate, silky tannins and a long, fine finish.

The 2017 Saint Joseph Clos de Cuminaille comes from an east-facing granite slope in Chavanay and sees 30% new oak for 18 months. It's a big, oaky wine, full-bodied and silky textured but marked by herb-streaked cherries and a tart finish. I could see this improving over the next few years.

There are two other St Joseph releases. Coming all from a single vineyard in the northern part of the appellation (this site was originally planted in 1981 and has sandy, granite soils), the 2015 Saint Joseph Clos de Cuminaille (100 cases) is 100% Syrah that will see 16-18 months in 30% new barrels. This inky-colored St Joseph offers terrific notes of chocolaty dark fruits, roasted herbs, licorice and espresso roast, medium to full-bodied richness and ripe, polished tannin. It’s a beautiful wine.

A step back from the 2015, the charming, rounded, sweetly-fruited 2014 Saint Joseph Clos de Cuminaille offers lots of juicy, blackberry, raspberry, spring flowers and passion fruit characteristics in its medium-bodied, easygoing style. It's a well-made, enjoyable effort to drink over the coming 5-6 years.

The smaller production 2013 Saint Joseph Clos de Cuminaille should be a step up over the traditional cuvee. It has rock-solid notes of black raspberry, crushed rocks, wild herbs and olive, as well as good underlying minerality. Medium-bodied, balanced, with good purity and an elegant feel, it should have 7-8 years of longevity, possibly more.