This year, there was enough volume once again to produce a 2020 Meursault Vendanges Sélectionnées. Exhibiting aromas of pear, freshly baked bread and orange zest, it's medium to full-bodied, racy and incisive, with fine depth at the core and more cut and tension than the regular bottling.

An step up over the domaine's regular bottling, the 2018 Meursault Vendanges Sélectionnées reveals aromas of crisp green pear, white flowers, beeswax and smoke. It's medium to full-bodied, with more depth and tension, concluding with a chalky finish. As usual, this cuvée derives from parcels that touch Santenots.

From parcels that touch Santenots, the 2017 Meursault Vendanges Sélectionnées offers up aromas of yellow orchard fruit, flowers and fresh peach. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and nicely concentrated, with more depth and dimension than the regular Meursault, its generous core of fruit balanced by juicy acids.

The 2015 Meursault "Vendange Sélectionnées" comes from limestone soils with around 40 centimeters of soil; it has a refined bouquet with scents of yellow flowers and honeysuckle gently wafting from the glass. The palate is crisp and very complex right from the start: saline, minerally, a little austere at first but there are lovely walnut and hazelnut notes on the shimmering, focused finish. This is just divine.

The 2009 Meursault Vendanges Selectionees is superb. It possesses gorgeous delineation and length in a style that is at once delicate and powerful. Constantly changing in the glass, the wine reveals tons of personality and pedigree all the way through to the spherical, engaging finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. These are two beautiful whites from Lafarge. The wines will benefit from being opened well in advance or cellared if possible. Despite the warmth of the year, these are very classic whites. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Veritas Imports, CA; tel. (310) 205-3800, Martin Scott Wines, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Classified Wines & Spirits, TX; tel. (512) 458-8587