Ecard’s 2005 Savigny-les-Beaune Vieilles Vignes leads with intriguing aromas of tobacco, nutmeg, ash and raspberry. A grenadine-like sweetness of fruit on the palate is laced with smoke and spices. This is quite creamy yet bright, with a good sense of density and a likelihood of improvement if cellared for a few years. (The last vintage for Michel Ecard’s father Maurice is also reported on in this issue.)Michel Ecard left his family’s domaine two years ago and began making wine from four hectares whose fruit his two uncles had formerly sold to negociants. By terms of the subsequent sale and lease of the family domaine, Michel will have to wait nearly twenty years before he gets a share of inheritance to farm for himself. There is no question of his conscientiousness, and one can expect the wines to improve as he applies some tough love to his uncles’ vines. There will be one additional cru here in each of the next two years.Also recommended: 2005 Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Gravains ($57.00; 86), 2005 Savigny-les-Beaune Les Peuillets ($57.00;85).A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.
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