The 2015 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Clos du Meix was matured for ten months in barrel using 20% new oak, bottled in August. It has a compelling bouquet with granite and smoky scents filtering through the citrus lemon and Granny Smith aromas. As it opens, it offers something almost estuarine, like mudflats on a wintry day. The palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity, great depth and focus here, fanning out with confidence towards the finish with veins of passion fruit and lychee, though they do not impede upon the mineralité. Excellent, just excellent.

The 2014 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Clos du Meix had a slightly muted nose when I encountered it at the domaine, only reluctantly offering up beeswax and lemon thyme scents. The palate is fresh on the entry with green apple, a squeeze of lime and bitter lemon, matched with a keen line of acidity and a conservative, straight-laced finish that is precise if not sustained. This satisfying Saint Aubin should be drunk over the next 5-8 years.

The 2013 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Clos du Meix is the maiden release from a new 0.30-hectare parcel of south-facing 40-year-old vines that Damien told me are leased en fermage. Matured in 15% new oak and bottled in August, it has a clean and precise bouquet with subtle notes of praline developing on the nose that stays focused and direct. The palate is fresh and poised on the entry with very good acidity. This is harmonious and full of tension, building gently in the mouth to a very poised and minerally finish. This is a superb debut.