Notes of citrus oil, confit lemon, pear and wet stones introduce the 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Castets, a medium to full-bodied, ample and concentrated wine that's open-knit and giving, concluding with a chalky finish. It's a pretty, charming wine produced from younger vines.

Opening in the glass with hints of pear, pomelo, crisp green apples and fresh pastry, the 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Castets is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and chiseled, with tangy acids and fine length on the finish. It's produced from a south-facing, stony site.

Scents of citrus oil, almond paste and white flowers introduce the 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Castets, a medium-bodied, open and expressive but precise wine, derived from a south-facing site characterized by poor, stony soils.

The 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Castets is also open and expressive, bursting with aromas of white flowers, fresh pear and hazelnuts. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, charming and giving, with lively acids and a precise, chalky finish. This is another of Colin's 2017s that's drinking well straight out of the gates.

Bottled last August, the 2016 Saint Aubin 1er Cru Les Castets is one of many nascent white burgundy wines to exhibit a touch of licorice on the nose. I actually find it quite attractive. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity although it does not quite deliver the complexity of its fellow Saint-Aubins this vintage. There is a pleasant spicy edge but it needs a little more mineralité and tension to warrant a higher score. Still, it is a well-made wine and should age well.