The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles unwinds in the glass with aromas of pear, peach and green apple mingled with white flowers, freshly baked bread and baking spices. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with a layered, charming mid-palate and a precise finish, it's a charming, seamless wine in the making.

Finer boned and less concentrated than the extraordinary Combettes, the 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles offers up aromas of peach, orange zest, white flowers, freshly baked bread and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, saline and chiseled, this might just be a little shy after bottling, but on first encounter, it doesn't dominate Leflaive's range of premiers crus to the extent that it usually does.

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles has also turned out very well, unwinding in the glass with aromas of fresh bread, pear, citrus oil, anise, yellow apple and toasted nuts. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and nicely concentrated, it's deep and seamless, with an elegant, charming profile. Could this evolve like a modern-day version of the domaine's stunningly good 1982?

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Pucelles wafts from the glass with aromas of spring flowers, white peach, lemon, pastry cream and blanched almonds. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural but tangy, with a pure, fine-boned profile. It was quite reserved when I tasted it, so I suspect it only needs time to take on the breadth and dimension that characterize a great Pucelles, but for now, the wine is quite tensile and linear.

The 2016 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Pucelles offers similar richness to the Folatières but with a hints of Meursault-like nuttiness developing in the glass, plus hazelnut and lychee. The palate is very well balanced with a harmonious texture, a fine bead of acidity, a little spicier than the Folatières though quintessentially Puligny-like on the strict, linear and quite saline finish. Very fine—there is plenty of personality here.