The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis Village, a blend of two parcels, was raised in around 20% new oak and was completely de-stemmed. It has a perfumed, quite floral bouquet with kirsch, wild raspberry and hints of orange blossom that gain vigor in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red berry fruit, the tannins a little rigid at first. However, it seems to mellow in the glass and offers veins of spice towards the finish that needs to succor more body and density. Again, give this a couple of years in bottle.

The 2013 Morey St Denis Village Cru already offers more black fruit on the nose compared to the Tres Girard ’13. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, a fine thread of acidity and a harmonious finish that exerts a light grip. There is fine precision here and for me, a step up from the Très Girard '13 this year.

From three parcels, a majority from the lieu-dit of "Thenevery," the 2011 Morey St. Denis Village is tighter, more reticent on the nose than Laurent-s fellow Village crus, although the palate is well-balanced with a pleasant juicy opening that fans out toward raspberry and strawberry leaf notes on the mid-palate. There is just a nagging dry note on the aftertaste that will hopefully disappear with bottle age. Drink 2014-2018. Domaine Hubert Lignier is another Morey-St-Denis estate that I have followed and visited for a number of years, a period that has been turbulent to say the least. I have always appreciated Hubert's classic style of wine and his tenets have been instilled in his son, Laurent. It was he who led me through the tasting of impressive 2011s at their cellar under a magnificent cedar overlooking the Route Nationale, though Hubert popped in to say, "Bonjour." Laurent explained that the vineyards are now in their third year of organic viticulture although he has no intention of seeking certification. This was a strong set of pure, sensual, quite intellectual wines that I feel deserve more recognition, exhibiting prudent use of oak, ample freshness and wonderful expression of their terroirs not dissimilar to Lalou Bize-Leroy. Quantities are often very small as they home in on individual lieux-dits, though prices remain reasonable. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 2010 Morey St. Denis shows the weight and broad shoulders of Morey in its dark red fruit, flowers, mint and licorice. There is plenty of freshness, vibrancy and drive in this beautifully balanced villages-level wine. I especially like the minerality of the finish. The Morey is made from parcels in Poroux, Clos Solon and Chenevery. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Laurent Lignier began harvesting on September 30 and finished on October 5. Yields were down approximately 30-35% across the board because of the cold summer. Lignier reported that the fruit required minimal sorting but the bunches were very small. The 2010s had not been racked at the time of my tastings. Lignier planned to bottle in the spring of 2012 with no fining or filtration. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The estate’s 2009 Morey St. Denis is made from three parcels; Les Porroux, Clos Solon and Chenevery. It shows the broad shoulders of Morey in its dark fruit, spices, mint and white flowers. The firm tannins and depth of the fruit add to a sense of vibrancy. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Hubert Lignier started harvesting on September 11. The fruit was 100% destemmed. Vinification started with a few days of cold maceration followed by fermentation, with one or two punchdowns a day. The village level wines saw 20-25% new oak (some of the barrels were slightly larger 350-liter casks), while the estate used approximately 33% and 50% new barrels for the 1er Crus and Grand Crus respectively. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990